If you’re dreaming of adding a touch of old-world charm to your garden, Canterbury bells might be just what you’re looking for. Also known as “cups and saucers”, these lovely flowers are a cottage garden favorite, known for their sweetly scented, bell-shaped blooms that come in shades of white, pink, purple, and even blue!
Canterbury bells are typically grown as biennials, meaning they sprout and grow foliage in the first year, then bloom in the second before completing their lifecycle. However, in some areas with mild winters, they may behave more like short-lived perennials.
Their blooms appear in late spring to early summer, creating a magical display. These plants are not just beautiful, they’re also pollinator magnets. Bees, butterflies, and even hummingbirds can’t resist these charming flowers! Canterbury bells are easy to grow and do best in moderate climates. Best of all, they’re non-toxic—safe for children and pets.
| Common Name | Canterbury bells, cup and saucer |
| Botanical Name | Campanula medium |
| Plant Type | Biennial |
| Native Area | Southern Europe |
| Mature Plant Size | 3 feet (1 meter) |
| Flower Colors | White, pink, purple, blue |
| Hardiness Zones | 5-8 |
| Sunlight | Full sun, partial shade |
| Soil | Well-draining, moist, loamy |
| Soil pH | Neutral, alkaline, acid |
| Toxicity | Non-toxic |
How to Grow Canterbury Bells
Sowing and Transplanting
- To get a head start on the season, you can sow Canterbury bells indoors in late winter, about 10–12 weeks before your last expected frost. If you live in a milder climate, they can also be sown outdoors in autumn, where they’ll overwinter and reward you with beautiful blooms the following summer.
- Fill a shallow seed tray or container with fine potting soil or seed starting mix. It should be light and well-draining.
- Sprinkle the tiny seeds evenly over the soil surface. Cover them with a very light layer of soil—just enough to barely hide them. Canterbury bell seeds need a bit of light to germinate, so don’t bury them deep.
- Use a spray bottle to mist the soil gently. Cover the tray with a clear plastic lid or wrap to help maintain humidity, but make sure there’s some air circulation to prevent mold.
- Keep your tray in a bright spot, like a sunny windowsill or under grow lights. Aim to maintain a temperature between 65–70°F (18–22°C) for the best results. A seedling heat mat can help if your space is chilly.
- Germination usually takes about 14–21 days, but don’t worry if it’s a bit long, it’s worth the wait! Once seedlings appear, remove the cover and make sure they get lots of light.
- Once your seedlings have a couple sets of true leaves and are big enough to handle, you can transplant them into individual pots.
- When all danger of frost has passed, harden them off gradually by placing them outside for a few hours a day before planting them into your garden.
- Once your seedlings are hardened off and the weather is frost-free, it’s time to plant them into their forever home! Choose a spot with well-drained soil and full sun to partial shade.
- Space your plants about 12–16 inches (30–40 cm) apart to give them plenty of room to grow and breathe. Water them in well after planting.
Light
Canterbury bells thrive best in full sun, with four to six hours of direct sunlight each day being ideal. While they can tolerate partial sun, they’ll produce the most vibrant blooms with more light. If you’re gardening in a hotter climate, be sure to offer some afternoon shade to protect them from intense heat and help prevent stress.
Water
Canterbury bells prefer evenly moist soil, so it’s important to water them regularly during the growing season. They don’t do well in drought conditions and can die if left dry for too long. That said, be careful not to overwater, as soggy soil can lead to root rot. Aim for consistent moisture without letting the soil become waterlogged.
Soil and Fertilizer
Canterbury bells grow best in moist, well-draining soil enriched with organic matter. They tolerate a variety of pH levels from neutral to slightly alkaline, but a near-neutral pH is preferred for optimal growth.
When it comes to fertilizing, apply a low-nitrogen, high-potassium fertilizer (like a 5-10-5 NPK blend) in early spring, just as new growth begins. This supports strong root development and encourages flower production. You can follow up with a second light application just before the plants start to bud, usually in late spring, to boost blooming. Avoid over-fertilizing, especially with high-nitrogen formulas, as this can lead to more leaves than flowers. A fertilizer specifically made for flowering plants works well too.
Temperature and Humidity
Canterbury bells are happiest in cooler climates and really thrive when temperatures stay mild. They prefer it below 80°F (27°C); anything hotter can stress the plant and impact its growth or flowering. If you’re gardening in a warmer region, give them a little break from the heat by providing afternoon shade and keeping the soil consistently moist (but not soggy). They also appreciate good air circulation, which helps prevent issues in humid conditions and keeps them looking fresh and healthy!
Canterbury Bells Care
Pruning and Staking
To keep your Canterbury bells looking their best, deadhead regularly throughout summer by pinching or cutting off faded flowers; this not only keeps the plant tidy but can also encourage more blooms. If you’re hoping to collect seeds or let the plants self-seed naturally, leave a few flowers on the plant at the end of the season.
As these beauties can grow up to 3 feet tall, their tall, slender stalks will benefit from staking, especially on windy days, to help keep them standing strong.
Pests and Diseases
While Canterbury bells are relatively easygoing, a few pesky problems can pop up. Slugs and snails love to nibble on the tender foliage of young plants, so keep an eye out early on. Other common pests like aphids, spider mites, and thrips may also make an appearance. Inspect leaves regularly and treat as needed with gentle insecticidal soap or neem oil.
When it comes to protecting your plants from fungal diseases, keep an eye out for:
- bacterial leaf spot
- grey mould
- damping off
- powdery mildew
- root rot
- rust
Pruning regularly and providing good air circulation around your plants will help keep them healthy and prevent these diseases.
FAQ
Should I pinch out my Canterbury bells?
Yes, pinching out young shoots can encourage bushier growth.
Can you grow Canterbury bells in pots?
Absolutely! Just choose a deep enough pot with good drainage, as they have long roots.
Do Canterbury bells come back every year?
Canterbury bells are biennials; this means they grow foliage the first year and bloom in the second, then die. However, in milder climates, they can self-seed and return in the following years.
Can Canterbury bells be divided?
No, they are not usually divided like perennials. Since they are biennials, it’s better to grow new plants from seed.
Are Canterbury bells cut and come again?
Not exactly. While deadheading can encourage more blooms, they don’t rebloom repeatedly like true “cut and come again” flowers.
What is the difference between Canterbury bells and Campanulas?
Canterbury bells (Campanula medium) are a type of Campanula known for their tall spikes and large bell-shaped flowers. “Campanula” is the broader genus, which includes many species with different growth habits and bloom shapes.
Will deer eat Canterbury bells?
Unfortunately, yes. Deer may nibble on them, especially the tender shoots. Using deer deterrents or protective netting can help.
